Pre-Installation Evaluation
Exterior Conditions
- Gutters, downspouts, and flashing is in place and positioned to direct water away from the house
- Ground surrounding structure is properly graded to drain away from the structure
- All windows and exterior doors are installed, lockable, and otherwise weather tight
- All thresholds are sealed, caulked, and otherwise weather tight
- Driveways & sidewalks are finished
- Adequate electrical power is available at the jobsite: 110V, 220V
- Temporary Pole is within 75 feet of the house
Interior Conditions
- Rough mechanicals are complete
- Cabinets are installed
- Baseboards are set above subfloor to allow for horizontal hardwood expansion (3/4 min.)
- 7/8 clearance on plywood/OSB subfloors
- 5/8 Clearance on concrete slabs
- All trades (drywall, paint, ceramic tile, wallpaper, plumbing pressure test, etc.) are complete
- Pressure washing in basement is complete
- Basement is free from leaks or standing water
- Crawl space has moisture barrier in place
- Jobsite has been cleared of debris, scraps, boxes, and other obstacles
- Surface of subfloor is clean, dry and slab is free of contamination (paint, solvents, sealers, etc.)
- Subfloor has been thoroughly inspected and confirmed to be sound and flat
- No loose 4×8 panels
- No relative movement between subfloor panels at joints
- No delamination of plywood subfloor panels
- No excessive water damage to OSB subfloor panels (swelling, warping, flaking, etc.)
- Concrete slab surface is not powdery, scaly, or otherwise deteriorated
- Concrete slab surface is not rough, pitted, or showing exposed aggregate
- No holes, trenches, or unfinished sections of concrete slab remain
- Profile of subfloor does not deviate from bring flat by more than 3/16 in a 6-foot radius
Installation Checklist
Planning and Precautions
- Plan for hardwood installation after trim, cabinets, and paint jobs have been completed.
- Call to schedule flooring installations 10 days ahead of desired date.
- Limit other trades working in the house at the same time as flooring contractors.
- After unfinished flooring is installed, closely monitor activity in the house to eliminate potential for water damage. Water and other liquids that can penetrate into the wood grain can damage the flooring or cause permanent stains. Keep windows and exterior doors latched.
Sanding and Finish Coats
- Sanding, staining, and the initial polyurethane seal coat are applied during one trip. After this is done, the floor is the most vulnerable to costly damage. 90% of the total product has already been incurred, and most repairs required after this stage will cost 40% to 50% more to perform.
- If a total of three poly coats are to be applied, schedule the second (intermediate) coat the day after the first coat. This builds up a better layer of protection for the floor against paint, dirt, spills, or other contamination.
- Polyurethane seal or wear coats will normally take 6-8 hours to dry depending on humidity. Extra coats of poly cannot be applied until previous coats are completely dry (as evidenced by the buffing process causing the poly to powder rather than becoming gummy).
- After the intermediate wear coat dries, fully cover the floor with rosin paper until the final coat of polyurethane is applied. Do not stick any tape to the floor surface unless it is intended for release use (i.e. blue tape).
- No work activity should take place in the house after this point without protective paper or proper drop-cloth in place.
- Schedule the final finish coat after carpet is installed and before final paint touch-up.
- Light foot traffic permitted 6-8 hours after the final coat. Do not place furniture or other heavy objects on the final coat until it has cured for at least three days.
- Climate control in the house always improves drying time and yields better finish results. However, HVAC blowers should not run while the floor surface is still wet since additional dust will settle into the finish.
- Signs should be posted on all exterior doors warning when the finish is wet, and exterior doors should be locked after all coating applications.
Post-installation Maintenance
Cleaning
- Do not use the same mop on vinyl and hardwood. Cleaning solutions used on vinyl will contaminate the polyurethane on hardwood floors even if the mop is only used for dust mopping.
- Polyurethane floors should not be cleaned (other than dust mop) for a period of at least two weeks. Since most final coats are applied the last week of construction builders should dust mop only.
- Do not use oil based soaps or cleaners such as Murphy’s Oil Soap and Pine-Sol.
- Do not use water or water based cleaning solutions on floor. Use only manufacturer recommended cleaning products, such as Bona Kemi, which are designed to evaporate rapidly.
- Sweep floors regularly. Do not allow excessive trash to sit on floor. Screws from light fixtures, plumbing, and electrical debris, paint left over from window cleaning process, can all be tracked on floors and cause damage. Dirt and grit can act like sandpaper and abrade the finish.
- Be careful with cleaners on backsplashes and fireplace surrounds. Caustic cleaners should not be dripped on floors or wood will turn black.
Damage Prevention
- Walk-boards should be in place in muddy lots so that excessive mud doesn’t end up in house.
- Check ladders used by other trades. Padding should be in place for use on hardwood floors.
- Be careful when pressure washing around doors and seals. Water should not be applied directly against seals. Check floors for water after pressure washing.
- Painters should always use drop cloths inside the house.
- Windows and doors should always be closed at night to protect floors from moisture.